Food & Beer Culture

Hokkaido is home to Jingisukan, grilled lamb or mutton cooked on a domed iron griddle. The name is the Japanese rendering of Genghis Khan. It likely arose because, in the early 20th century, people believed Mongol warriors ate mutton. The dome shape of the griddle is said to recall their helmets, though that's considered legend.

The dish's real origin is more down-to-earth. Sheep were raised for wool during the Taishō era, when the state sought self-sufficiency. Once synthetic fibers emerged and demand fell, the meat found its way to the table instead. Since 2004, Jingisukan has been recognized as part of "Hokkaido Heritage," the island's regional cultural heritage.

It's grilled with onions, bean sprouts, mushrooms, and peppers, served with a soy-based dipping sauce. The lamb's fat runs down the griddle's dome and bastes the vegetables cooking around the edge. Beer pairs well with it because it cuts through the fat and its carbonation cleanses the palate.

At the Sapporo Beer Garden, people eat Jingisukan in large halls alongside their beer. In summer, beer gardens pop up in Odori Park right in the heart of Sapporo. People toast with "Kanpai," the Japanese drinking call that literally means "dry cup."

Serving sizes matter with the meal. The Jokki comes in several sizes, so those wanting to drink less can order a smaller glass. In winter, when snow covers the ground, hot stews often join the table too, and the hungry might order Sapporo ramen with miso broth. Still, Jingisukan remains the dish most strongly tied to the island's beer.