Tasting

A Sapporo lager smells of fresh bread with a touch of grass, tastes crisp and dry, and carries a fine, white foam. It's easy-drinking, which makes freshness essential: visit the Sapporo Beer Museum and you can try a reconstructed 1877 recipe alongside today's beer.

The Sapporo Beer Museum stands in Sapporo inside a red brick building from the Meiji era and has been open since 1987. Next door sits the Sapporo Beer Garden with its brewhouse restaurants. The museum traces the history of the Kaitakushi Brewery through machinery and old posters.

Some beers are only available on the island, such as Sapporo Classic. Small breweries are also worth seeking out: Hakodate Beer, Otaru Beer, and Abashiri Beer all show how diverse Hokkaido's brewing scene has become today. These are examples of local flavor, not specific recommendations.

Beer is served very cold. The classic vessel is the Jokki, a thick-walled mug with a handle that helps retain the chill. Bars also commonly use slender pilsner glasses. Draft beer is called Nama Biru, literally "raw beer" — meaning beer that hasn't been pasteurized (briefly heat-treated).

Pouring is all about the foam cap. A finger's width is considered ideal, protecting the beer from oxygen and keeping the carbonation locked in. Pour at an angle, then straighten the glass as it fills. When tasting, smell first, take a small sip, and pay attention to the finish. A good lager leaves barely any aftertaste, inviting the next sip.