Tasting

What does a Trappist beer from North Brabant taste like? La Trappe's Dubbel smells of caramel and dark fruit and, according to the label, carries 6.5 percent alcohol. The Tripel comes in at 8 percent and shows honey, spice, and a dry finish. The Quadrupel reaches 10 percent and tastes of raisin, fig, and toffee.

A fourth example worth trying is La Trappe Isid'or at 7.5 percent. The amber-colored beer sits between Dubbel and Tripel and tastes of caramel and ripe fruit. From Lieshout comes a counterpoint: a Bavaria Pilsener, lean, pale, and crisply bitter.

The right glass for abbey beers is a chalice or a stemmed tulip glass. The shape holds the foam head and concentrates the aromas. For dark, strong beers, a small glass is worthwhile, since you drink them slowly. A pilsner, by contrast, is served in a slender glass.

Temperature matters. Served ice-cold, Tripel and Quadrupel taste dull, because the cold numbs fruit and spice. About 50°F (10°C) is a good starting point for most abbey beers. A pilsner can be served cooler, around 46°F (8°C).

Pour in one motion from a tilted bottle until the glass is about a third full. If yeast has settled at the bottom of the bottle, leave it behind, unless you want the beer cloudier and yeastier. Either way is fine; it's a matter of taste. The important thing is to drink slowly: a 10 percent Quadrupel is a beer for savoring in small sips, not for quenching thirst.