Tasting

How do you order a beer in Vienna? By size: a Krügerl is half a liter, a Seidl is usually 0.3 liters, and a Pfiff is the smallest glass, ranging between an eighth and a fifth of a liter depending on the tavern. The Krügerl doesn't necessarily need a handle; it's a measure of quantity, not a glass shape.

A Vienna Lager in the glass smells of bread crust and lightly of toast. The first sip is soft and lightly sweet, then a mild bitterness arrives, and the finish stays dry. You taste little fruit, barely any roasted notes, and no sharp hop character.

Three beers serve well as examples. Schwechater Wiener Lager shows the copper-colored style, Schwechater Zwickl the naturally cloudy counterpart. Ottakringer Helles stands for the everyday Viennese tavern beer, golden and easy-drinking.

Serving temperature is around 6 to 8 degrees Celsius. Colder, and you barely taste the malt; warmer, and the beer feels heavy. Tapping is a craft in itself: the beer runs down the side of the glass until it's half full, then it's topped off straight, and the foam head should stand about two fingers tall.

A simple order helps when tasting. First note the color, then smell the glass, then drink in small sips and wait out the finish. Anyone ordering a Seidl or a Pfiff can compare two beers side by side this way, without a full half-liter standing in front of them. The glass should be clean and cold, since grease residue from washing causes the foam to collapse quickly and visibly robs the beer of its crown.