Tasting

What's the right way to drink Grodziskie? From a tall, slender goblet. Tradition calls for tall, conical glasses that showcase the golden color and the rising bubbles. The Grodzisk brewery advises opening the bottle gently and pouring the beer slowly into a tilted glass.

Following their instructions, fill the glass to about three-quarters. Then let a white head build. Pour too quickly and you'll end up with lots of foam and little beer. Some yeast remains at the bottom of the bottle, which you can pour into the glass or leave behind, depending on taste. It makes the beer slightly hazy and a touch breadier, taking some of the shine off the clear goblet.

Piwo z Grodziska from the Grodzisk brewery, as an example of the style, first shows aromas of wood smoke, followed by wheat and a light fruitiness. On the palate it feels refreshing, almost fizzy, finishing dry with a hint of smoke that lingers for a while.

For comparison, try a Lech Premium from Poznań, whether on draft or from the bottle, served in a simple glass. It's golden, easy-drinking and lightly bitter—a completely different experience, with no smoke, no yeast sediment, and a smaller head.

Serving temperature should be cool but not ice cold, or the smoke will nearly vanish. Cellar temperature just before pouring is ideal. The warmer the glass gets, the more the oak and wheat come forward.