Tasting

What does a beer from Brno or Znojmo taste like? With the pale lager, bread crust comes first, followed by herbs and a dry bitterness. The dark lager offers coffee, nuts, and caramel, yet stays easy to drink. Both styles are fresh and light enough to carry you through the evening.

Examples include Starobrno from Brno, the beer from the Znojemský městský pivovar in Znojmo, and Lucky Bastard as a representative of the young scene. Starobrno offers traditional pale, dark, and unfiltered beers, while Lucky Bastard ranges from Blond to Siciliano.

In Czech pubs, beer is usually served as a Půllitr, half a liter in a handled mug or tulip-shaped glass. Those wanting less order the small beer, the Malé, typically 0.3 liters. It's served chilled, generally at seven to nine degrees Celsius, so the aromas can unfold.

Pouring calls for a dense head of foam, which locks in aroma and shields the beer from air. The foam should be creamy and long-lasting. Look closely, and you'll notice that Brno's bartenders give the beer time to settle before serving it.

A visit is best planned by first strolling through Brno's old town and heading to the taproom afterward. Starobrno brewery offers tours, while in Znojmo an exhibition on brewing recalls the era of the Hostan brand. Those wanting to compare beers side by side should take a small glass of each and note foam, color, aroma, and finish, in that order.