Tasting

In New York, beer is usually served by the pint—a glass holding 473 milliliters, the American pint. For a lager, that's the right size: a full glass that won't go lukewarm before you finish it. Belgian beers, by contrast, come in a tulip or chalice glass, which concentrates the aroma.

A Brooklyn Lager in the glass is amber-colored and clear, with a white head. The nose carries malt and a light hop note; on the palate, caramel and bread crust follow, then a fine bitterness. It's a solid example of the Vienna style.

Ommegang Hennepin is a saison. It smells of citrus and pepper, pours golden, and drinks dry and lively. Ommegang Abbey Ale shows the dark side as a dubbel: raisin, spice, and warmth, without tipping into sweetness. Both beers serve as examples here, not recommendations.

How much alcohol does Brooklyn Lager contain? According to the brewery, 5.2 percent ABV.

On temperature: lager tastes best around 6 to 8°C, Belgian beers around 8 to 12°C. The stronger the beer, the warmer it can be served, since aromas open up as temperature rises.

Tilting the glass helps when pouring. Hold it at an angle under the tap, then bring it upright toward the end so a head of about two fingers forms. Glasses should be clean and free of grease, or the foam collapses quickly. Pour a Belgian beer into the tulip glass carefully, and leave the bottle-conditioning sediment behind in the bottle, for the most part.