Tasting

What does pomace brandy from the Mosel taste like? The first time you nose it in a glass, you pick up grape and skin, then something green, a stemmy spiciness, and only after that the fruit. Distillery Vallendar calls its Riesling pomace brandy "Marc de Moselle," 40 percent alcohol; Falstaff rated it 89 points, describing typical pomace notes with a slightly vegetal character, a hint of vineyard peach, and a mild structure in which the pomace spiciness builds toward the finish.

The Dr. Loosen estate offers a Riesling pomace brandy. According to the estate, it's made from the skins and seeds of Riesling grapes, gently distilled, staying clear and elegant with precise fruit. Both examples show where the style is aiming: not power, but clarity.

A wine lees brandy smells different. Instead of fruit, yeast takes center stage, a note like freshly racked wine, bolder and more idiosyncratic. It's a matter of taste, and that's why it's worth setting it next to a pomace brandy to smell the difference.

For a Riesling pomace brandy, a nosing glass or a small tulip glass that narrows toward the opening and concentrates the aromas works well. A wide glass lets the sharpness of the alcohol rise first. Serve slightly below room temperature, since too cold mutes the aromas and too warm pushes the alcohol forward.

First you nose it, then take a small sip and let it sit briefly on the tongue. Water on the side belongs with it. Tasting is best done slowly and in small amounts.