Tasting

A Kirsch d'Alsace or Kirsch de Fougerolles smells first of cherry, then of the stone: a hint of bitter almond, dry and without sweetness. The specifications require that nose and palate recall cherry with a stone-fruit note. A clean brandy shouldn't sting the nose.

Mirabelle de Lorraine smells of ripe yellow plums, with fruity, rather soft tones and no ethereal sharpness. On the palate it feels clear and free of excess acidity. Marc d'Alsace Gewurztraminer is floral, fruity and spicy on the palate, with the aroma of the grape variety preserved in the brandy.

For comparison, look to houses that have been bottling fruit brandies for decades: the Mirabelle and the Wild Raspberry from the Grande Réserve line at Distillerie Miclo in Lapoutroie, alongside the brandies of Distillerie Metté in Ribeauvillé. Both houses are benchmarks for the eaux-de-vie of the Vosges valleys.

A nosing glass or small tulip-shaped glass that narrows toward the top captures the aromas best; a wide tumbler lets them dissipate too quickly. Pour only a small measure. At a minimum of 45 percent ABV, these brandies sit well above the EU minimum of 37.5 percent, so nose them first and sip slowly.

When tasting several brandies side by side, start with the lightest and finish with the strongest: mirabelle first, then kirsch, and finally the spicy marc. A sip of water between glasses helps keep the nose fresh. No one needs more than an inch or two per glass.

Fougerolles has its own custom for this: pour a few drops into the cup of your hand, breathe in the aroma, then drink the rest. According to local tradition, the warmth of the skin awakens the aromas — or so they say there.