Food & Tradition

What is a trou normand? The "Norman hole" is a small glass of Calvados served in the middle of a lavish meal, between two courses. Tradition holds that it makes room for the next course. Today, the trou normand is also served as apple sorbet with a splash of Calvados. The little glass doesn't actually aid digestion, though, since alcohol tends to slow stomach emptying rather than speed it up; the relief people feel is really just relaxation.

The cheeses of the region are world-famous: Camembert de Normandie, Livarot, and Pont-l'Évêque all carry an EU designation of origin, the AOP. Livarot is recognizable by the reed bands wrapped around the wheel, Pont-l'Évêque by its square shape. Calvados pairs well with their rich flavor, since apple acidity and tannin cut through the fat.

On the plate, you'll find Poulet Vallée d'Auge: chicken in cream sauce with apples, cidre, and a splash of Calvados flambéed in the pan. The Calvados goes into the sauce so the alcohol burns off while the apple aroma remains. Dessert follows with tarte normande, an apple tart with cream.

Pommeau de Normandie, apple must fortified with Calvados, isn't a brandy and is served as an aperitif, even before the meal begins.

Visitors to Cambremer and Beuvron-en-Auge can follow the Route du Cidre, a signposted scenic route running from farm to farm, where producers offer cidre, Pommeau, and Calvados. Beuvron-en-Auge stands out for its half-timbered houses.

As a digestif with coffee after the meal, an older Calvados works better than a young one, since age makes it calmer and less sharp.