Tasting

How does Tsipouro taste, and how should it be drunk properly? A good Tsipouro smells of fresh grape skins, blossoms, and a hint of stone fruit; in the mouth it's dry and warm, without the sweetness of a liqueur. With anise, a licorice note rises on top, which shouldn't fully mask the grape character.

Three houses make for a good comparison. Katsaros and Kardasis represent Tyrnavos, where Tsipouro is part of the town's history. Idoniko from Domaine Costa Lazaridi near Drama represents Macedonia. Lining the bottles up side by side quickly reveals how widely grape variety and the distiller's touch can differ.

A nosing glass or a small tulip glass captures the aromas best. In Greece, however, Tsipouro is traditionally served in tiny glasses at the table, customarily 25 milliliters, hence called Ikosipentari. In the past there were even smaller measures, the Daktylithres, translated as "thimble."

Temperature matters a great deal. Lightly chilled but not ice-cold, the muscat aromas stay audible; served ice-cold, they fall silent. With anise, some add a splash of water, which takes the edge off the spirit and opens up the spice.

To taste properly, first smell the empty glass, then the filled one, and let just a few drops spread across the tongue. The finish reveals the quality: a good spirit leaves grape behind, a poor one leaves solvent. Metaxa makes a good counter-tasting, amber-colored, sweeter, with rose and herbs.

When nosing, it helps to think in three layers. On top sit the volatile scents of blossom and grape, in the middle spice and herbs, and below the warm tones of pomace and skin. Flaws show up as a vinegar edge or a glue-like note; a cleanly distilled Tsipouro smells clear and without off-flavors.