Tasting

A pear brandy from the Mostviertel shows best in a small tulip glass or nosing glass, where the aromas gather instead of escaping right away. The glass has a slender stem and an opening narrower than its bowl.

Room temperature is fine — around 16 to 18°C is ideal. Too cold, and the fruit stays closed off; too warm, and the alcohol overwhelms everything. Smell it first without swirling, then take a small sip and let it sit briefly in the mouth.

With the Original Pielachtaler Dirndlbrand, the sweet fruit stands out first, with a subtle note underneath often described as truffle. The finish is long and mellow. With perry pear brandy, the ripe pear comes through with a tart edge.

As an example of a perry pear brandy, there are the Mostbarone, who preserve and work with this fruit across the region — among them Doris and Josef Farthofer. The Wieselburg fair also awards brandies and perries, with honors such as "Das goldene Stamperl" and "Die goldene Birne."

From the Elsbeerreich around Michelbach comes an Elsbeerenbrand that's rarely found due to the tiny quantities produced. It tastes finer and quieter than pear brandy, with a light tartness in the background. Line up three glasses side by side, and you'll quickly notice that Dirndl comes across sweet, pear bold, and Elsbeere restrained.

Since all three are colorless, the eye gives nothing away — the nose has to decide. It's worth pausing a moment after each glass and taking some water and a piece of bread in between.