Distillation

Once fermentation of the Damasson rouge is complete, the still comes into play in the Ajoie, as soon as possible and no later than December 31 of the harvest year. During distillation, the fermented fruit mash is heated, the alcohol rises as vapor, cools again in a coiled pipe, and drips out as distillate. Alcohol boils at a lower temperature than water, which is how the two separate.

The specifications permit stills with one or two passes, heated by open flame, water bath or steam. With a double pass, the distillate runs through the still a second time, coming out stronger and cleaner.

What matters most is separating the three fractions. First comes the heads, which smell sharp and contain volatile compounds; these are discarded. Next comes the heart, carrying the fine fruit aromas. Finally comes the tails, with heavy, often musty notes.

With Damassine, the tails aren't simply poured away but redistilled, and only the heart of this second distillation may be added back to the first distillate. Exactly where the cut between heads and heart falls is a judgment call the distiller makes by nose and experience.

Methanol, a compound derived from pectin in the fruit's cell walls, is present in every fruit brandy. Cutting the heads only partially reduces it, which is why legal maximum limits apply. At the end, the distiller brings the brandy down to drinking strength with water — in Jura, only distilled or demineralized water from the region may be used. This describes the process rather than a how-to guide, since distilling requires a permit.