Tasting

A glass of Damassine smells of bitter almond and plum before the palate even gets a chance. These aromas gather best in a nosing glass or a small tulip glass, since the narrower bowl concentrates the scent at the top. It's served at room temperature, never chilled, since cold mutes the delicate notes.

First, hold your nose to the rim of the glass and inhale briefly, with your mouth slightly open so the alcohol doesn't sting. Then take a small sip and let it coat the palate. Finally, wait for the finish: as you exhale, aromas rise up into the nose from behind, something experts call retro-olfaction.

This is exactly how the panel that evaluates every Damassine before sale assesses it too. They award up to five points each for aroma and purity, flavor and typicity of the fruit, finish, and balance. A brandy needs at least twelve out of twenty points to be allowed to carry the name.

Line up several bottles side by side and you'll see vintage and municipality on the label, along with whether the fruit came from grafted or wild trees. That turns a tasting into a comparison: the same Damasson rouge, a different municipality, a different year. What stays consistent is that powerful note of small wild plums with a touch of dry hay.

A glass of water belongs alongside it. Small amounts are enough, and since Damassine has a minimum strength of 40% ABV, this is a brandy best judged slowly, in small sips.