Spirit Style

Eau-de-vie de poire du Valais AOP is a clear pear brandy. The specifications call for an intense Williams character, with grassy, oily or oxidised notes considered faults. It holds at least 40 percent alcohol and rests at least three months in tank. Morand's Williamine is a pear brandy of this style, though legally it's a brand name rather than an appellation.

Abricotine AOP smells of Luizet apricot, dry and warm. At a minimum of 40 percent alcohol, it sits slightly above Wachau's Marillenbrand, which may only go to market from 38 percent. The difference from its Austrian neighbour lies in the fruit: the Wachau relies mainly on the Klosterneuburger apricot, Valais on the Luizet.

Unlike Zuger Kirsch, which also carries a Swiss AOP, it isn't cherry that goes into the glass in Valais, but pear and apricot. Zuger Kirsch rests at least six months and is made from distilling cherries grown on tall standard trees; the Valais brandies come from orchards planted across the Rhône Valley.

Both Valais AOP spirits qualify as fruit brandies under EU definitions: distilled from fermented fruit, with no added neutral alcohol and no colouring. Distinguishing between fruit brandy and fruit spirit means distinguishing between fermented fruit and unfermented fruit steeped in alcohol. Williamine and Abricotine belong to the first category. For label reading, this means: if it says Eau-de-vie de poire du Valais AOP or Abricotine AOP, the fruit comes from Valais and the brandy was fermented, distilled and bottled there; if only a brand name appears, check the stated origin.