Fruit & Raw Material

In April, the apple orchards between Bolzano and Salurn stand in full bloom, while the vines on the slopes above are just budding. What fruits is South Tyrolean fruit brandy made from? The answer is already in the names of the protected brandies: Williams pear, Golden Delicious, Gravenstein, and for the Obstler, a blend of apples and pears.

The Williams pear, often sold as Williams Christ, ripens in late summer and then smells so intensely that the aroma rises to the nose even while picking. For brandy, it's left to fully ripen, since only ripe fruit brings enough sugar and aroma into the mash. A pear with bruises, which would be sorted out for sale, is still good enough here, as long as it hasn't rotted.

Golden Delicious is one of South Tyrol's most important apple varieties: mild, sweet and low in acidity. It yields a soft, rounded brandy. The Gravenstein, by contrast, is an old summer apple that ripens early and has a strong aroma; its brandy has more freshness and a more pronounced fruit note.

Then there's the grape. Gewürztraminer is said to be named after Tramin, the village where the distilleries also stand. Lagrein, a dark variety from the area around Bolzano, also grows in the Adige Valley. What the wineries leave behind after pressing—the pomace of skins, seeds and stems—goes to the distillery and becomes grappa.

Why these particular fruits? Because the valley floor is warm in summer and the nights stay cool, apples develop color and aroma, and grapes retain their acidity. And with so much fruit on hand, there needs to be a way to use it even when it's not fit for sale.