Tasting

Gin is best tasted neat, at room temperature, in a glass with some curve to it that gathers the aromas. First comes the nose, with the mouth slightly open. Then a small sip, held briefly in the mouth before swallowing. A few drops of still water often open up further aromas that get lost in the pure alcohol.

Tanqueray has been distilled at Cameronbridge since 1998. As a flavor example, it shows the classic London Dry character: juniper and pine upfront, followed by coriander and a dash of citrus peel, all dry and without sweet edges. Gordon's, from the same facility, leans in a similar direction. It comes across a bit sharper in juniper, with a distinct note of angelica root on the finish.

Hendrick's from Girvan shifts the impression entirely. Rose sits upfront, cucumber cools things down afterward, and the juniper stays more in the background. Those used to London Dry often find it soapy at first, until the nose adjusts to the floral profile.

Edinburgh Gin Classic leans back toward more juniper. Along with it comes a slightly earthy, honeyed note of heather. A dry, herbal bitterness, according to the distillery, traces back to the milk thistle.

Between these three examples lies a small exercise for your own nose: first seek out the pure juniper, then whatever each distillery adds on top, and finally the finish, which often lingers longest in memory.

Three gins, distilled barely a hundred kilometers apart, and yet the range spans from sharp pine to soft blossom.