Style & Regulation

Legally, gin is regulated more simply in the US than in the EU. Federal regulation 27 CFR Part 5, issued by the American alcohol authority TTB, mandates a minimum of 40% ABV. That's noticeably higher than the European minimum of 37.5% ABV for gin. In addition, the finished gin's flavor must be recognizably derived from juniper. American law recognizes no protected designation of origin such as 'London Gin' or 'Genever'. Californian distilleries are therefore free to use such style names as long as no one is misled.

This freedom is one of the reasons a distinct style could emerge in California. It deliberately adheres to neither London Dry nor Genever. Bold in aroma but not necessarily juniper-forward, that's probably the best way to describe it. Distilleries tend to choose their botanicals based on the landscape rather than the category. In the 2000s, a term emerged for this stance: New Western Dry Gin.

St. George Spirits, with its Terroir Gin, represents the most radical expression of this style. Juniper is present, but clearly takes a back seat to Douglas fir, bay laurel, and sage. Some tasters barely recognize it as a classic gin on the first sip. Junípero, by contrast, deliberately holds to the bold, juniper-forward London Dry style. So both directions continue to coexist quite naturally in the same city to this day.

Anyone reading the labels will nonetheless find one thing the brands have in common. Most Californian gins sit at 45 to just under 50% ABV, noticeably above the legal minimum. This shows that distilleries care more about aromatic intensity than simply meeting the regulatory bar.