Tasting

What does rhum agricole from Martinique taste like? A white agricole like Neisson's organic blanc at 52.5% ABV smells first of freshly cut sugarcane and grass, then of pepper and white blossom. The palate is dry and powerful, with a long-lingering finish.

Depaz Blue Cane sits a step further along. It's amber-colored, with notes the trade press describes as caramel and sugarcane, showing how the cane character turns rounder after aging without entirely losing its freshness.

A step further still is Depaz's Grande Réserve XO, aged at least six years in oak. Typical of this age tier are spice, vanilla, and dried fruit, while the grassiness of the blanc fades into the background. Tasting both side by side reveals exactly what six years of oak can do to the same cane.

A tulip-shaped or nosing glass with a narrow opening works best, as it concentrates the aromas. The rum should be at room temperature, since cold dulls the nose. At strengths above 50% ABV, nose it from the rim of the glass rather than diving in deep, as the alcohol will otherwise overwhelm everything else.

Taste it neat in small sips, pausing a moment between each. A few drops of water can open up a strong blanc without diluting it; rarely more than a teaspoon is needed. If you're wondering which rhum to start with, the blanc is the best entry point, since it shows the cane character most clearly.