Tasting

What does sparkling wine from Mendoza taste like? Mostly fresh and clean, with lemon, lime, green apple and a hint of brioche from long lees aging. The acidity feels taut, shaped by cool nights, and the fruit is brighter than in many sparkling wines from warm regions. Dosage and alcohol stay in the background.

Three examples for comparison all come from Chandon Argentina. Baron B Brut Nature carries the driest style in its name, with sugar barely perceptible. Baron B Cuvée Spéciale Extra Brut is listed by Decanter under Uco and shows more roundness. The rosé version brings red berries into play. All three serve here purely as flavor examples, not as a judgment of value or price.

A tall, slender glass helps. The tulip shape narrows toward the rim, holds the aromas together and lets the bubbles rise for a long time. The old-fashioned flat coupe lets carbon dioxide escape quickly and fails the nose.

Served ice-cold, any sparkling wine goes mute. Around 6 to 8 degrees Celsius works better—about two hours in the fridge, or roughly half an hour in a bucket of very cold water. Rosé and vintage wines may be served a degree warmer.

When opening: hold the bottle at a 45-degree angle, grip the cork firmly and slowly turn the bottle, not the cork. It should hiss, not pop. With four atmospheres of pressure inside, this is no small matter, so never point the neck toward faces.