Tasting

An Espumante from Pinto Bandeira typically tastes pale and taut: lemon zest, green apple, plus a note of fresh bread with longer lees aging. The acidity leads, and the fruit stays clean. This suits the high elevation, where the grapes never become overripe. Pinot Noir gives the wine fullness and a hint of red berries, especially in a Blanc de Noirs, while the Chardonnay draws the line. On the palate the wine feels lean rather than opulent, and the bubbles are fine.

Several houses offer good examples of sparkling wine from the Serra. Casa Valduga and Miolo work in the Vale dos Vinhedos, Chandon do Brasil and Peterlongo in Garibaldi. Chandon offers a tank-fermented sparkling wine, while Valduga and Miolo produce bottle-fermented wines. Tasting them side by side reveals the difference: the tank wine is fruitier and simpler, the bottle-fermented wine deeper and more bready.

The sweet Espumante Moscatel is a world unto itself. It smells of grapes, peach and blossoms, has low alcohol and a fine, soft mousse. It's a wine for the afternoon, not for a feast.

The right glass is a tulip glass. It is tall and narrows slightly at the top, so the aroma collects and the bubbles rise for a long time. A flat coupe lets aroma and carbon dioxide escape quickly. How to care for glasses and which shape suits which wine is covered in the article on wine glasses.

Serving temperature is six to eight degrees Celsius, with Moscatel served a touch colder. When opening, hold the bottle at an angle and slowly twist the cork out until only a soft hiss is heard. This keeps the carbon dioxide in the wine rather than on the table.