Tasting

What does Crémant de Luxembourg taste like? Mostly green and yellow apple, pear, and citrus peel, joined by a hint of brioche with longer lees aging. Because its acidity comes from cool limestone soils, it feels fresh and taut; Auxerrois-driven cuvées turn out softer and fruitier.

Three names help with comparison. The Poll-Fabaire line of Crémants from Domaines Vinsmoselle includes a Brut that can serve as a benchmark. Bernard-Massard in Grevenmacher bottles Crémant alongside its Sekt. Crémant de Wallonie from Domaine de Glabais, a Brut made by the traditional method, represents the Belgian side.

For the glass: choose a tulip shape rather than a wide coupe. The tulip glass, with its slender bowl narrowing slightly at the top, holds the bubbles longer and lets the aromas rise; the flat coupe lets both escape quickly. For a vintage Crémant with extended lees aging, a small white wine glass also works well, since it allows the aromas to open up more fully.

Serve well chilled, around 6 to 8°C; a Crémant with substantial lees aging can be poured a few degrees warmer, letting brioche and nut notes unfold. Served too cold, it tastes dull.

To open it, keep the cork in hand and turn the bottle until you hear a soft hiss rather than a loud pop. Hold the bottle at an angle, thumb resting on the cork.

The bubbles are worth a glance: fine, long strings of bubbles signal a calm second fermentation and sufficient time on the lees. When tasting, try a comparison: sample a Brut, then an Extra Dry side by side; the Extra Dry will seem fruitier and softer, the Brut more taut.