Tasting

Cocuy Pecayero tastes of the earth and fire it comes from. It's smoky from the cardón wood of the earthen oven and sweetly earthy from the cooked agave. On the finish, a dry, mineral edge lingers, recalling the calcareous soil the plant grew in. Between sips, a faintly vegetal, almost green note often remains, recalling the raw agave leaves.

Around 150 artisan producers contribute to production in Pecaya. Only eight brands hold the protected designation of origin, among them Indio Sunure by José Medina and Santa Lucía by Lourdes Navarro. A quality body called UPPLA Pecaya inspects and controls the bottling of these protected spirits. That these eight brands exist at all today is no small thing. After decades of clandestine distilling, the families of Pecaya had to relearn how to practice their craft openly once the law changed in 2005.

Traditionally, Cocuy is not drunk in quick gulps. Instead, one drinks it "aguantaíto" — patiently, in small sips. Each sip lingers briefly in the mouth before being swallowed. A small glass is entirely sufficient. At up to 50 percent ABV, the spirit is stronger than most bottles on the shelf.

The difference from tequila or mezcal shows itself from the very first sip. Mexican agave spirits often come across as milder and more floral. Cocuy Pecayero, by contrast, remains more earthbound, smokier, and drier. This flavor cannot be replicated elsewhere, since neither the agave nor the soil of Falcón exists anywhere else.