Glassware

The glass decides. It determines how much of a Palatinate Riesling actually comes through. Because the region is among the warmest and sunniest in Germany, the grapes often ripen fuller than on the Mosel. The finished wine carries more alcohol and riper fruit. A glass that's too wide only amplifies that: it spreads the wine out, letting alcohol and sweetness push forward while the fine fruit acidity fades away.

For Palatinate Riesling, then, a tall, narrow chalice glass with a tapering opening, the so-called tulip shape, works best. The slender bowl keeps the wine cool, since little surface is exposed to room air, while the narrow opening focuses the aroma before it dissipates into the room. With a Grosses Gewächs from the Pechstein, which often brings a smoky, mineral note, this focusing effect makes all the difference. Between a mute glass and a talkative one, sometimes it's a matter of a single choice.

Temperature is where the most mistakes happen, precisely because the Palatinate is so warm. Eight to ten degrees Celsius suits a simple, fruity Riesling. A mature Grosses Gewächs from Deidesheim or Forst, however, calls for ten to twelve degrees, so its depth can show. Served too cold, any Palatinate Riesling tastes of nothing but sharp acidity; served too warm, it tastes of alcohol and loses its freshness.

Things look quite different with Dornfelder, the Palatinate's most important red wine. It has little tannin and plenty of fruit, so it doesn't need a bulbous Bordeaux glass. A medium-sized chalice glass suits it better. Serve it at fourteen to sixteen degrees Celsius, cooler than most people serve red wine. And whatever wine is in the glass, pour only up to its widest point, no more than about one hundred fifty milliliters in a standard chalice. The rest of the glass stays empty for the aroma, which otherwise never gets the chance to gather.