Glassware

For Chardonnay and Riesling from the Niagara Escarpment, the height of the bowl matters most. A slender bowl that tapers slightly inward concentrates the fruit aromas at the nose. That's exactly what defines this cool region. A glass that's too wide spreads the wine across the tongue and makes the acidity seem sharper than it actually tastes in the mouth.

With Cabernet Franc, the shape changes. The variety has finer tannin than many expect, yet it benefits from more air. A slightly rounder bowl works well here, similar to a light Bordeaux glass, with plenty of room to swirl. Confine the wine too tightly and you'll miss the herbal note that sits alongside the blackcurrant.

Vidal ice wine gets its own, much smaller glass. A port or dessert wine glass with a narrow bowl holds just five to six centiliters. No more is needed. The bottle, too, is correspondingly small, since the wine's sweetness and density make their impact even in tiny amounts: ice wine from Niagara is usually bottled in two-hundred or three-hundred-seventy-five-milliliter bottles, because the same quantity of grapes yields only a fraction of the usual juice.

Temperature also determines the enjoyment here. Riesling and Chardonnay from the bench taste best between eight and ten degrees. That's cool enough to keep the acidity taut, but not so cold that the aromas freeze up. Ice wine, on the other hand, tolerates ten to twelve degrees, a bit warmer than one might think, otherwise the apricot and honey hide behind the chill.