Glassware

A glass changes how much acidity and tannin you notice first, and Blaufränkisch has plenty of both. A glass that's too narrow concentrates the variety's peppery edge into a single point, while one that's too wide lets it fall apart. What's needed is a glass with a proper bowl, similar to a Bordeaux shape but with an opening that narrows noticeably: room for the fruit, plus a funnel that gathers the spice before it dissipates.

Temperature is where a lot goes wrong. Sixty to sixty-four degrees Fahrenheit (16–18°C) suits a Mittelburgenland DAC or Eisenberg DAC — cooler than room temperature, but warmer than the fridge. Served too warm, the alcohol steps in front of the fruit, and the robust tannin turns bitter rather than firm. Twenty minutes in the fridge before serving is usually enough to fix this.

An Eisenberg DAC Reserve, aged two or three years in large oak casks, benefits from decanting. Its dense fruit and firm tannin need air to open up, or the wine comes across as closed. A young Neusiedlersee DAC Zweigelt, on the other hand, doesn't need this. It's approachable from the start. Too much air will strip its freshness rather than help it.

Ruster Ausbruch is a completely different case. Its sweetness and acidity are so concentrated that a normal wine glass overwhelms it. What's needed is a small, slender glass, barely larger than a stemmed shot glass, that carries the wine across the tongue in a thin layer. Serve it cool, at forty-six to fifty degrees Fahrenheit (8–10°C), or the sweetness turns heavy rather than lively. Five to six centiliters is enough for a whole evening.