Tasting

Texan whiskey rarely tastes restrained. The fast, hot maturation pulls a lot from the barrel in a short time. That's why barrel notes like caramel, vanilla, and spiced oak often meet with a great deal of power: high proof strengths are practically the norm in this scene, not the exception. First-time tasters should brace for more punch than a mellow blend delivers.

In 2010, Balcones from Waco won double gold at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition with Baby Blue, a corn whiskey made from roasted blue corn. It shows just how sweet, almost chocolatey, pure corn can taste, entirely without the vanilla note that new oak usually brings.

The Texas Single Malt "1" from Balcones heads in a different direction: malty and dense. Some tasters are reminded of smoked meat, almost like a hint of Texas barbecue in the glass. That doesn't come from smoke itself, but from the intense interaction with the barrel.

Garrison Brothers' Texas Straight Bourbon from Hye represents a third direction: plenty of wood, plenty of fruit, and a finish that lingers. With whiskeys this powerful, a drop of water in the glass is always worth trying. It opens up the aromas without watering them down.

The best approach is to try all three in sequence, from the mild corn whiskey through the malty single malt to the powerful bourbon. Between each sip, it's worth pausing briefly so the palate can recover and clearly distinguish the next, stronger whiskey.