Tasting

A pale lager from Valdivia tastes round and lightly malty. The foam is white, the carbonation fresh, the bitterness restrained. Set a beer from the craft brewery Heráldica in Los Ríos or from 7 Lagos in Panguipulli next to it, and you'll taste the difference: more hops, more character, often a darker glass.

Glassware in the region comes in many shapes. A Schop usually arrives at the table in a mug or stein. At the beer festival, large steins reminiscent of Bavaria come out, even though the Calle-Calle River flows nearby instead of the Isar.

Temperature matters a great deal. A lager belongs well chilled in the glass, at five to eight degrees Celsius, so it stays refreshing. A darker ale or stout shows off its roasted notes better when served a bit warmer, at eight to twelve degrees Celsius.

For a proper tasting, it's worth heading to Torobayo on the outskirts of Valdivia. The Kunstmann brewery moved there in 1997 and built a space where, according to the operators, visitors can watch the brewing process and sample the beers fresh.

Pouring it right means: tilt the glass, let the beer run down the side, and straighten it up at the end so a small crown of foam forms on top. The foam traps aromatic compounds and shields the beer from the air.

It's worth pausing before the first sip. First you take in the aroma, then take a small sip and let it roll over the tongue. This reveals whether malt, hops, or yeast is setting the tone.