Tasting

What does a Dortmunder Export taste like? First bread and grain, then a light, honey-like sweetness that balances a moderate hop bitterness. There's barely any fruit or roasted character, but instead a full, round mouthfeel. The beer is golden to deep gold in color and brilliantly clear.

Two Dortmund beers make for a good comparison. DAB offers a beer called "11° Dortmunder Export," which carries its original gravity right in the name. Then there's Brinkhoff's, another of the city's pale beers. Both are now brewed on the grounds of the Actien-Brauerei, and the exact style in your glass is best confirmed on the label.

It's traditionally served in a slender Stange glass or a cylindrical tumbler. The head should be dense and white, standing proud atop the beer. Serving temperature is around seven to nine degrees Celsius — too cold, and the malt disappears; too warm, and the beer turns heavy.

When pouring, tilt the glass and let the beer run down the side. Toward the end, hold the glass upright and let the foam rise. This preserves the carbonation and lets the head hold its shape.

Smell before you drink. The nose reveals grain, honey, and a touch of grass. On the palate, the bitterness registers first, then the malt, leaving a dry note in the finish. If you like, try an Export and a Pils back to back and compare the two finishes.