Tasting

What should you look for in a Pils from Hamburg? First, the color, which should be pale gold and clear, then the foam, which should be fine and white. When drinking, freshness comes first, then the bitterness, which shouldn't linger too long.

Good examples for a comparison include Holsten Pils, Astra, and Ratsherrn's Pils. Holsten and Astra both come from the Carlsberg Group, while Ratsherrn belongs to the Nordmann Group. Tasting the three side by side, ideally from identical glasses and at the same temperature, reveals just how different the bitterness, body, and foam can turn out.

The classic glass is the Pils tulip: slender, with a stem or short foot, flaring slightly outward at the top. It holds the foam steady and shows off the color. Common sizes are 0.2 and 0.3 liters, and a Pils in a 0.3-liter glass is the standard in Hamburg when you simply order "a beer."

As a rule of thumb, Pils is best enjoyed at around 6 to 8 degrees Celsius. Too cold, and the aromas hide; too warm, and the bitterness turns flabby.

Pouring takes time. The old saying about seven minutes isn't a hard rule: how long a Pils takes depends on the equipment, temperature, and carbonation. The beer is poured in two or three stages so the foam can form its proper crown.

For a Hamburg-style experience, there are small brewhouses, such as Blockbräu at the Landungsbrücken and the Gröninger Privatbrauerei near the Speicherstadt. Both brew on-site, where you can also taste the beer. It tastes different there than from a bottle, since it comes fresh straight from the tank.