Tasting

What does Gose taste like? First comes the acidity, fresh like lemon or yogurt, then a hint of salt at the edges of the tongue, and finally the coriander, lightly spicy and floral. Sweetness barely plays a role, the body is light, and the beer finishes dry. Anyone new to sour beer should start with a small glass.

Which Gose belongs to Leipzig? Three names keep coming up. The Gose from the Gosebrauerei at Bayerischer Bahnhof, the Döllnitzer Ritterguts Gose, whose production began in 1999 according to the producer, and the Gose from the Gosenschenke "Ohne Bedenken." The exact details of each batch are disclosed by the respective producers on their own websites.

In Leipzig it's customary to order Gose "mit Schuss"—with a shot. This refers to syrup or liqueur, such as raspberry, woodruff, or caraway, added to the glass. Purists reject this, but in the city it's part of tradition. Anyone who tries the beer pure first will better understand just how much the shot can mask.

It's served cool, not ice-cold, at around six to eight degrees Celsius. At that temperature, the acidity and spice come through without being numbed by the cold. A thick head isn't mandatory, though Gose usually carries a fine-pored, short-lived crown thanks to its wheat-derived protein content.

The glass is usually tall and slender, so you can see the color and watch the carbonation rise. It's served fresh, straight from cask or bottle. A Gose left standing open for too long tastes flat.