Malt & Grain

On the Swabian Alb, brewing barley grows among lentils. Berg Brauerei in Ehingen-Berg says it uses barley from the Alb-Leisa growing region, where lentils and grain alternate on the same fields. Alb-Leisa simply means 'Alb lentils' in the local dialect.

The connection is practical. Lentils draw nitrogen from the air into the soil, meaning the barley grown there the following year needs less fertilizer. The brewery therefore works with Bioland-certified farms and brews some of its beers according to Bioland organic standards.

The barley is malted at maltings not found in every village. Malting involves letting the grain germinate so it can convert starch into fermentable sugar, then kiln-drying it at increasing heat. How pale or dark the resulting malt is depends on that heat.

Zwiefalten promotes its Helles as being made with brewing barley from the Alb. It's a producer's claim, but one that shows how important regional grain has become as a selling point.

When it comes to wheat, the Alb is less rigid. Some breweries' 3-Korn-Hefeweizen blends wheat with other grains, but these remain exceptions alongside the pale barley beer that fills most glasses here.

Ultimately, the grain defines the flavor of the signature beer. Pale Pilsner or Vienna malt gives the Helles its golden color and a sweetness reminiscent of freshly baked bread, while a touch of caramel malt can add depth. At Zwiefalten, this results in the Helle 1521; at Berg Brauerei, the Spezial — in both cases, malt remains the star of the glass.