Beer Styles

Bière de Garde comes in three colors: Blonde, Ambrée and Brune. All three are robust, malt-forward and leaning rounder than bitter. The BJCP, an American guide for beer competitions, describes the style as having 6 to 8.5 percent alcohol.

The flavor lands around caramel, bread crust, toffee and a light earthiness that reminds some of a cellar. The hop aroma stays in the background, the finish is soft and long. The Ambrée is the classic version, the Blonde comes across fresher and drier, and the Brune is darker, with roasted notes and more body. For first-timers trying Bière de Garde, the Ambrée is the easiest entry point.

Bière de Garde is often confused with Saison from Wallonia. Both come from the rural borderlands. But Saison is drier, peppery and spritzier, while Bière de Garde is sweeter and rounder. The difference lies less in the recipe than in the overall feel of the style.

The region's best-known beer is Jenlain Ambrée from Brasserie Duyck. 3 Monts, from Saint-Sylvestre-Cappel, launched in 1985 and, according to the brewery, has 8.5 percent alcohol. Ch'Ti Blonde from Bénifontaine is paler and goes down more easily.

The name Bière de Garde carries no legal protection. You'll find it used by breweries outside France too. What qualifies a beer for the style, then, comes down to how it's made: robust, malty, long-aged, with malt in the foreground and hops kept in the back.