Hops

Unlike in Kent, East Anglia today has few hop gardens left. Barley is the region's great field crop, and the cones for bitterness mostly come from other parts of England. So which varieties define the beers of the region? They're the old English classics.

Adnams names four varieties for its Wild Hop Amber: Fuggles, Goldings, Bramling Cross and Sovereign. What's special is that some of the cones are gathered locally, from wild plants and gardens alike. The beer carries that wild growth in its name, remaining a rare example of truly local hops.

Challenger also appears in the brewery's beers. These varieties taste of earth, wood, dark berries and mild spice, less of citrus and tropical fruit. That suits a beer meant to taste of bread and toast.

Hops do two things, and they're triggered at different times. Boil the cones long in the wort, the sugary malt liquid, and their resins dissolve to give bitterness. Add them just before the boil ends, or later as dry hops in the cask, and the aroma survives while the bitterness stays low.

How bitter a beer from the region turns out depends on the variety and when it's added. A Best Bitter sits between 25 and 40 IBU according to BJCP guidelines. In East Anglian beers, balance with the malt usually matters more than hitting peak bitterness numbers.