Tasting

A pint in Britain is a measure of 568 milliliters and the standard glass at the pub. Real ale is usually poured through a handpump, called a "beer engine." The landlord pulls the handle, and the beer rises up from the cask in the cellar below. The glass is often a "nonic," featuring a slight bulge below the rim that makes clinking glasses less hazardous, or a handled mug.

How cold should real ale be served? Not ice-cold. As a rule of thumb, cellar temperature applies, roughly 11 to 13 degrees Celsius. At this temperature the aroma comes through, and the beer tastes rounded. The carbonation is light, which some mistake at first for "flat." But it's entirely intentional.

Good examples of London bitter include Fuller's London Pride, a Best Bitter from Chiswick, and Fuller's ESB. For porter, Fuller's London Porter is worth trying, a dark beer with coffee and chocolate notes. Small breweries also make dark beers: Anspach & Hobday brews the Smoked Brown, a dark beer with a light smoky edge.

Those wanting to try the newer scene should walk the Bermondsey Beer Mile, a string of breweries beneath the railway arches south of the Thames. The scene began in the early 2010s, when Kernel, Anspach & Hobday, Fourpure, and Partizan set up shop. Kernel was founded by Evin O'Riordain in 2009; Anspach & Hobday opened in 2014. The taprooms mostly pour pale IPAs, pale ales, and barrel-aged beers, often in glasses smaller than a pint.

When tasting, order matters: start with the lighter bitter, then move to the porter. Smell first, then take a small sip and consider what comes through first: malt, hops, or roast.