Tasting

What does Heineken taste like? Like a pale lager: the first impression is fresh and slightly sweet with malt, followed by a mild, somewhat earthy bitterness. Some detect a hint of apple and grass. The color is a clear golden yellow, the head white and fine. This beer is meant to refresh, not to stand out.

At Brouwerij 't IJ, the picture is different. The IJwit carries aromas of orange peel and coriander and pours cloudy, while the Zatte, a Tripel, brings fruit, spice, and higher alcohol. These beers are sipped slowly from the glass the brewery provides for them, usually stemmed or bulbous in shape.

The classic Pils glass found in Amsterdam pubs is the vaasje, a small glass holding roughly a quarter liter. It's filled so that a dense crown of foam sits on top. Order "een pils" and you'll typically get a vaasje; a larger size is called a pul. Pils is served cold, while Bockbier and Tripel can be a bit warmer so their aromas can open up.

For tasting a Bokbier, a tulip or wine glass is used. The aroma alone says a lot: caramel, bread, dark fruit. On the palate it feels full and round, with a malty finish. When tasting several Bokbiers side by side, compare color, sweetness, and bitterness.

When pouring: tilt the glass, let the beer run down the side, then set it upright at the end so the crown forms. In many pubs the foam comes almost to the rim—that's intentional, not stinginess.