Tasting

What does chicha de jora taste like? Freshly poured from the jug at a chichería, it's cloudy, pale yellow to amber, and lightly foaming. The first impression is sweetness, followed by acidity, along with a note of cooked corn and bread. The flavor varies from house to house, which is why in Cusco people don't speak of "the" chicha, but of the chicha from this particular door.

It's served in large glasses or cups, usually without chilling. The ritual is simple: first a small sip poured onto the ground for the Pachamama, then you drink yourself. First-timers should start with a small sip. At 3,400 meters, alcohol hits differently, and anyone arriving fresh from sea level should go easy.

Cusqueña, by contrast, comes cold in a tall, slender glass or straight from the bottle. The golden variety tastes mild, lightly sweet with grain notes, delicate bitterness, and a fine foam. The Negra and Roja varieties are maltier and rounder, while the Cusqueña Trigo is the wheat beer. To compare, try all four side by side in small pours.

A third option remains: the craft brewers of the Sacred Valley. The Cervecería del Valle Sagrado pours in its taprooms near Urubamba, in Pisac, and in Cusco, offering IPA, pale ale, stout, and the "Chicha Pilsen." Here you drink beer in the European sense, but made with highland ingredients. The glass of choice is a cup or tulip glass, served cool rather than ice-cold.