
Green Gold
Hops
What does hops from the Sanntal taste like? The classic Štajerski hmelj, also called Styrian Golding or Savinjski golding, has a mild, floral, lightly spicy aroma. It's a noble aroma hop that gives beer scent and bitterness without overwhelming it, exactly what the brewers of Žalec prize in it.
The hop institute in Žalec has bred new varieties from the old Golding. Celeia is one of them, a triploid cross of Savinjski golding and Slovenian male plants, bred to deliver higher yields while retaining the noble aroma. Alongside it stands Aurora, long the most widely planted variety.
According to a survey of growers, the valley most recently grew about 41 percent Aurora, 29 percent Celeia, and just under 10 percent Golding, with newer institute varieties sharing the remainder. Slovenia supplies roughly 2 to 3 percent of the world's hop harvest, and the record year 2018 produced 3,078 tonnes.
Since 2017, Štajerski hmelj has carried PGI status. That protects the name from imitation but says nothing about the taste of the finished beer. What counts is when the cones are picked and how quickly they're dried in the hop kiln, so the essential oils don't escape.
At the brewery, two jobs are kept separate. Bittering hops go into the wort kettle early and provide the sharpness, aroma hops go in late and deliver the scent. A pale lager lives on the balance between these two additions, and Celeia and Aurora cover both sides.