Tasting

A cold Laško tastes of nothing special at first, and that's by design. The first sip brings freshness and fizz, then comes grain, then a clean, dry bitterness. Zlatorog feels a touch more hop-forward, while Union is usually softer and rounder.

Both brands can be ordered at any local pub, and anyone keen to compare should order them one after the other. For tasting, go for Laško Zlatorog and Union Pivo. Both are widely available. Then there are the beers from the smaller breweries, which often make a point of showcasing Sanntal hops.

In Žalec, beer flows from a fountain. The Fontana piv, called Zeleno zlato, opened in 2016. You buy a glass with a chip built into the base and hold it under one of the taps; the tap reads the chip and dispenses 1 decilitre at a time. Six varieties are on offer, and the structure itself is shaped like a hop cone.

A glass of roughly 0.3 to 0.5 litres is standard, served at 6 to 8 degrees Celsius. Too cold numbs the flavour, too warm flattens the beer. The foam crown should be firm and stand about two fingers high, without the glass overflowing.

The serving sizes given here are a rough guide, as pubs set their own measures. Anyone feeling curious can order a bite to eat with any beer and notice how the taste shifts. Fresh bitterness turns into seasoning, and the grain steps forward the moment something salty lands on the plate.