Tasting

What does dark lager from Prague taste like? You first catch bread crust and caramel, then a light touch of cocoa. On the palate it's medium-bodied, soft, with a fine sweetness and restrained bitterness. The finish is surprisingly dry, so that by the second sip you're thinking more of bread than of cake.

Three houses serve as good examples. The Flekovský Tmavý Ležák from U Fleků is the classic dark lager. The Oldgott from U Medvídků shows an amber, unfiltered beer with 13 degrees original gravity and, according to the brewery, 5.2 percent alcohol. And the pale lager from Staropramen represents everyday drinking.

Beer is usually served in the "půllitr," the half-liter, a plain, thick-walled mug or cylindrical glass. There's also the "malé pivo," the small beer at 0.3 liters. In Pilsen, you'll find distinct pouring styles with varying amounts of foam, which we describe there.

Serving temperature runs around 6 to 8 degrees Celsius for pale lagers and more like 8 to 10 degrees for dark ones. Served too cold, the malt aromas disappear; too warm, and the beer turns syrupy and heavy. The glass should be clean and wet, not dry, so that a fine, stable foam can form.

In the hospoda, one rule always applies: the beer arrives without you having to reorder. The server marks a line on the coaster, and at the end you count up the marks. If you've had enough, simply place the coaster on top of your glass. If you only want to try a sip, it's best to say so right when the first glass arrives.