Hops

Where was hops grown in New York? Mainly in Madison County, in the center of the state. In 1808, James D. Coolidge planted the first hop field there, and by 1859, 87 percent of American hops came from New York. The Hudson-area state was, in effect, hop capital of an entire nation.

The collapse came in two stages. Around 1909, downy mildew—a fungal disease that attacks leaves and cones—destroyed much of the harvest. Then Prohibition, beginning in 1920, sent prices tumbling from about a dollar a pound to five cents. Most farmers tore down their trellises.

For nearly a hundred years, New York grew almost no hops. Since the 2000s, hops have made a comeback, supported by a hop program run by Cornell Cooperative Extension in Madison County. Some of the old-time varieties have been lost; new cultivars must now contend with the climate.

Hops contribute two things: bitterness, which balances the malt's sweetness, and aroma. American beers often showcase Cascade, a 1972 variety with citrus character. A Vienna lager needs little bitterness; a saison needs a bit more, since it's meant to stay dry and lively.

Ommegang's brewery in Cooperstown sits on the grounds of a former hop farm, roughly 55 hectares in size. The site is a reminder that hops were once the area's most important crop. Hop growing and brewing are closer together again in New York State than they've been in a hundred years.