Tasting

The first glass of Bia hơi tastes like not much, and that's entirely the point. It's pale, lightly malty, barely bitter, and carried by a subtle sweetness. The foam is thin and vanishes quickly, the carbonation mild. Anyone expecting a bold Pils will find it thin. Anyone thirsty on a muggy day will understand exactly why it's brewed this way.

Three beers, all from Hà Nội, are worth comparing. Habeco's Bia Hơi Hà Nội is available as a draft beer. Bia Hà Nội is the bottled version from the same brewery, smoother and a bit fuller. Then there's Trúc Bạch, the older brand from Hanoi Brewery, introduced in 1958. The exact alcohol content of the bottled beers is stated on the label.

Bia hơi is served in thick, heavy glasses made from recycled glass. Their shape dates back to the 1970s, when the first glasses were made quickly and from cheap material. A glass is a handle-less mug, sturdy enough for the sidewalk and the washing-up bowl.

The beer comes cool, but not ice-cold, straight from the metal keg. Some bars add a piece of ice to the glass, which dilutes the beer further but is often exactly what's wanted in the heat. It's poured straight from the keg, served quickly and without letting it settle, since foam isn't the point.

Anyone wanting to try Bia hơi should start with one glass and pay attention to the finish. It's short, dry, and clean. That suits the dishes served at the same tables.