Distillation

Grappa is not distilled from a clear liquid but with solid pomace in the still, which poses a challenge for the distillery: skins scorch easily. In Piedmont, this is often solved with steam. In the steam still, known in Italian as the alambicco a vapore, steam passes through the pomace and carries the alcohol upward, where it cools in the copper line and turns to liquid.

Many producers run this in batches: the still is filled, distilled, and refilled, rather than running around the clock as in industrial plants. Some houses work in a water bath instead, the bagnomaria. Direct flame beneath the pomace has become rare. Paolo Marolo deliberately reintroduced the steam still at his young distillery, even though it is more expensive and slower than an industrial column; according to the house, the spirit remains softer and more layered as a result.

Berta, too, says it relies on the steam still, believing it better preserves the finer aromas of the grapes. EU rules require that the first distillation take place with the pomace present, and the resulting spirit may reach a maximum of 86% ABV.

What comes out is separated into three parts. The heads smell sharply of solvent and contain volatile compounds that have no place in the glass. The heart carries the fruit and floral aromas and is what defines the grappa. The tails turn oily and heavy, with fusel oils and a scent of cellar and skins. Where these cuts fall is decided by the distiller's nose and experience—the part of the craft that no chart can capture. Distilling requires official permission; without it, distilling is illegal in Germany.