Glassware

A glass determines how much of that pepper reaches the nose, and with Grüner Veltliner that's no small matter. Too wide, and the spice dissipates before it reaches your nose. Too narrow, and the wine feels constricted.

A tall, slender glass is the right choice. Its opening tapers noticeably, similar to the classic Riesling glass, but with a bit more belly to accommodate the fuller body of some Kremstal wines. Riedel has even developed a dedicated glass shape for this, because Grüner Veltliner behaves differently from other white wines: spicier, but not necessarily sweeter. That combination calls for its own design.

Temperature is where most mistakes happen. Eight to ten degrees Celsius suits the classic, fresh style — just cool enough for the acidity to carry through without the pepper disappearing. A Riedenwein reserve from a site like Wachtberg or Pfaffenberg has more power and often a subtle oak note, but it can also handle two or three degrees more; otherwise it tastes tight and closed.

Riesling from the terraced vineyards gets the same slender glass, but at nine to eleven degrees Celsius, since its fruit only opens up with a bit more warmth. Served colder, it tastes only of lemon and stone, without the peach underneath.

The same rule applies to pour level as everywhere: fill only to the glass's widest point, never higher. Above that, there needs to be room for pepper, apple, and stone to come together into an aroma before your nose dives in. Pour to the brim, and you'll end up smelling less.