Tasting

How should you drink Gueuze properly? Cool, not ice-cold, at around 8 to 10 degrees Celsius, and from a simple glass that lets the aroma rise. A tumbler or a thin wine glass will do. Tip the bottle with sediment slowly, so the yeast stays at the bottom.

Cantillon bottles Gueuze in 37.5 and 75 centiliter sizes, with the larger size meant for sharing at the table. The first sip surprises with its acidity; by the third sip, the fruit comes through. If you're not keen on sour, start with Kriek.

At the café, Kriek is usually served as Mort-Subite-Kriek, either from the bottle or on tap. Théophile Vossen, the owner of À la Mort Subite, also gave this name to the beers from his brewery on the Rue des Capucins.

Taras Boulba from Brasserie de la Senne, on the other hand, is drunk from a tulip glass or a goblet, well chilled. The foam is dense, the bitterness arrives at the end, and the body stays light. When opening corked bottles, loosen the wire carefully and hold the cork firmly, as Gueuze carries a lot of pressure. The glass should be clean and free of grease, or the foam will collapse.

What genuinely surprises beer enthusiasts: the aroma changes with temperature. A Gueuze left to sit in the glass for a few minutes becomes rounder and shows more fruit. Patience is part of the ritual of drinking. When tasting several beers in a row, start with the lightest and finish with the strongest, so the acidity doesn't overwhelm the palate. A sip of water in between helps.